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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.